How Much Do You Know about Best 3d Printer For Cosplay?
Hello guys this is miler from blogbeast Reviews and welcome back to one of my weird 3d printing for cosplay articles a few days ago I politely parts with friends phone and made a post in her Instagram asking you what you wanted to know most about using 3d printers for cosplay and you all wrote a lot of interesting technical questions so thank you for that I collected and wrote down all of your suggestions and now have actually planned to make a couple of article telling you all about the different printers and materials and techniques we use to make our own cosplay projects so please look forward to more articles from me in the future and yes since last year’s with ann and i have actually been working on a book about 3d printing for cosplay and hopefully we will get that done soon too but when looking through your comments i noticed that there was one thing i should probably get out of the way first before i talk about anything else one question a lot of people seem to have in common and it’s what 3d printer should I get and oh boy I know where you’re coming from I was at the exact same point just a few years ago to show you what I mean let’s do a quick experiment just type 3d printer into Amazon and you’ll get around 700 results now that’s just a stupid amount of printers to choose from and Amazon doesn’t even sell them all okay maybe this will help go on Google and try to find a list of the best and most affordable 3d printers then just pick a couple of lists take a look and you’ll notice every single one of them will tell you something different like what the hell it’s like when you walk into the supermarket to buy a yogurt and then you see how many yogurts there are and it’s just too damn many and you can’t make a decision and then you start getting depressed this type of choice overload is very real in a 3d printing community and the more printers there are they’re harder it is to make a decision and in this article I finally want to give you an answer to the question which printer should you start with luckily if you’re like me and don’t care much about brands and just want to print a few couple of cool things for cosplay there’s a really easy answer to this question just buy any printer you can afford I know this probably sounds stupid but hear me out when you want to buy a 3d printer for cosplay you just need it to give you a good base to work on anyways it honestly doesn’t really matter that much if your printer was very expensive or very cheap if it prints in PLA or ABS because no matter what you use you’re gonna have to sand it for hours apply spray primer and glue the pieces together and seal them and paint them before they finally look the way you want them to now if you have some money to spare and want to buy an expensive printer I say go for it chances are you might reduce the time you have to send your pieces before they look good but you still have to send them a lot on the other side if you buy a printer for dirt cheap you just need to send a little bit longer before your pieces look good but the results are still the same to prove my point I did a little experiment I bought a random cheap printer.
Is Choosing The Common select 3D Printer For Cosplay The Most Trending Thing Now?
Before buying the 3D printer for Cosplay, enthusiasts must first verify what it is they want to print. The part about knowing what you want to print understands the size of the design, the durability needs, and the Use of the print. This performs it easier to decide whether you should go for print volume or resolution, for example.
Typically, Cosplay needs a large build volume because you will be mostly making pieces to be worn. Your home 3D printer will unlikely accommodate large prints, but it may come in handy when you want to print fine details. Printing a large object on a small build area means you will require more welds, and welds are usually a weak point.
There are tons of 3D printing machines out there that come with a variety of features, but here are the things to put into consideration when picking a 3D printer for Cosplay:
Type of Fiber – In most instances, you will find yourself wanting to print with different filament colors and types to achieve the diverse characteristics of your Cosplay. You will want your prints to be durable and be more realistic, and that means printing with exotic filaments and doing some post-processing as well. Characters in the Sci-Fi genre, for example, may require the Use of more exotic stuff like ceramics, wood, and metal, beyond that usual material like PLA and ABS. For the shields and swords, you may want to consider materials like PCT and PCL. Metallic filaments will be best suited for your metallic finishes or glowing features.
The comfort of Use— 3D Printing isn’t easy from day one. You will get abler at it for sure, but there is a learning curve. Knowing how the software works and how to get settings just right for you is a learning process. Are you the type of person that just wants to get Printing, or are you the type that will learn more from digging into the nitty-gritty right off the bat?
While a 3D printer may seem complicated when used for the very first time, it becomes easier to operate with time and experience. Understanding the software and other mechanical features is part and parcel of the learning process. Still, the first few days with your 3D printer can become a daunting task. Therefore, if you don’t have 3D printing or maker experience already, you probably want a 3D printer that comes assembled so that you can avoid assembling it from scratch. Many people want to attach a spool of filament and start printing within a matter of minutes. But more importantly, you also want to easily keep track of and control all the parameters that are responsible for the printing process. These may include temperature, print speed, and filament consumption.
Build Volume –
Build volume is the capacity or size of the platform where you will be printing your Cosplay. It is one of the most crucial features for a 3D printer for Cosplay because you are mostly creating wearable objects. Therefore, you will need a relatively large build space for most of your costumes or props. The goal is to always go for a volume that can accommodate your print. A large print volume will allow you to print your Cosplay in fewer parts, and fewer parts mean that your object will have fewer weak points.
The bigger your Cosplay props and costumes, the more build space or volume you will need for developing them. Therefore, when choosing a desktop 3D printer for Cosplay, you must consider going for a 3D printer with enough build volume to fit the sizes you previously measured in the conceptualization stage.
When 3D Printing weapons—such as swords, hammers, or arrows—as props, you will probably have to print in multiple pieces then cold weld them together in the print finishing process. The bigger the build volume, the fewer the welds.
This is where the relatively large build volume of the Creality CR – 10s and the LulzBot Taz 6 comes into play. Both 3D printers provide you with a build volume of approximately 280 * 280 * 250mm—although the Creality CR – 10s offers even more volume—which is enough to 3D print large Cosplay objects.
When considering build volume, these two are some of the best options you should consider as a Cosplayer interested in creating props using a 3D printer.
Technical Features –
The most important technical features that you should think about when looking for a 3D printer for Cosplay are print resolution and print speed. You may also want to consider an auto-leveling print bed to enhance and simplify the overall printing process. Lastly, the 3D printer’s maximum nozzle and bed temperature is also a critical part of what materials you will be able to use.
there are 3D printers that can print with different filament types that give you the characteristics of the diverse materials out there. Therefore, if your costumes need a metallic finish or glowing features to look and feel real, then you must consider the filament types a 3d printer works with.
Time to Final Decide.
Well, that was a pretty in-depth article for you, and I slipped four printers in there for you to consider. Rather than scrolling up to look for those handy links, let’s take a look at how things panned out.
Now that we’ve covered the most important factors that a cosplayer should look for in a 3D printer, let’s look at some of the best 3D printers for cosplayers on the market.
Let’s start with affordable:
1.LONGER LK4 3D Printer
The arrived LK4 simplifies assembly. The complicated parts such as cantilever, gantry, and nozzle have been assembled before leaving the factory. 90% of the assembly process is completed in advance. It saves 50% of the assembly time compared to other printers, and ensure better printing quality.
what type of filament do I buy for this?This printer’s consumable specification is 1.75mm. We recommend the use of non-toxic and odorless degradable PLA consumables
Size: 2.8 inch Touch Screen
Dremel Digilab 3D20 3D Printe
The Dremel 3D20 is the best 3d printer for cosplay various reliable consumer-grade 3D printer on the market. Every Dremel 3D20 has been rigorously tested to ensure reliable printing time and time again. Furthermore, Dremel filaments are specifically engineered to optimize printing.
The Dremel DigiLab 3D20 Idea Builder 3D Printer is Dremel’s most reliable low-cost 3D printer for hobbyists, tinkerers, and other users new to 3D printing. The simple design of the printer, along with the Dremel support team, will help you succeed at 3D printing, even without prior experience! The printer comes fully assembled and includes a 0.5 kg spool of Dremel filament. The easy to follow the quick-start guide and detailed instructions will help you begin printing right out of the box. Immediately, you will notice the attention to safety with the rigid, fully-enclosed design and 3rd party UL approval. The printer is designed to print with PLA filament onto a non-heated build plate that uses black build tape to help your prints adhere to the build plate. You can begin your printing with the high-quality models pre-loaded on the printer, which can be accessed through the 4” full-color touch screen. You can load your own files from sites such as Thingiverse, with the included Dremel 3D slicer software. An upcoming update will allow the 3D20 to use .gcode files so you can use Dremel Digilab 3D Slicer, Cura, Craftware, KISSlicer, Simplify3D, Slic3r, Repetier, and other programs to load your print files. Once you start slicing your own files, you can take full advantage of the 9” x 5.9” x 5.5” build plate and 100-micron high resolution. The simple design of the extruder allows for easy maintenance with continued use of the printer. With 85 years of reliable quality, Dremel is an established brand that you can trust to support you throughout your journey. By purchasing a Dremel 3D printer, you will have access to Dremel video tutorials as well as unrivaled Dremel customer service. All the help you need will be just a quick email, live chat, or phone call away. This is Dremel’s most affordable 3D printer and is perfect for new users or for students. Electrical Input Rating – 120 V, 60 Hz, 1.2 amp.
That being said because the filament by Dremel was not available at the time I did my review and I ran out of the original Dremel filament I did buy replacement filament by 3D Solutech (1.75 PLA 2.2lbs spool) and will confirm it works. The spool does not “lock” into the printer, however, it does fit in the spool grooves and still rotates and feeds into the print head with no issues. Just know that going non-Dremel brand you may lose your warranty. You could if you wanted to wind filament onto the Dremel spool and get it to “sit/lock” correctly if you are concerned about it. For me, it works perfectly without locking it in and placing it in the spool groove at the bottom of the printer
Product Dimensions: 18.5 x 13.4 x 13.8 inches ; 15.43 pounds
X-max QIDI TECH 3D Printer
X-max QIDI TECH 3D Printer is the best 3d printer for cosplay.its technology Fused Deposition Modeling.its build volume 11.8”x9.8”x11.8”(300x250x300mm) and much more Filament Types PLA,ABS,TPU,PETG,Nylon,PC,Carbon fiber,etc.Extruder Configuration 1 set of professional printing PLA, ABS TPU high stability extruder, Add 1 set of high-performance extruder for printing PC, Nylon, Carbon fiber.
1)I’ve never had a failed print, once I fixed the first CON. (I’ve owned and used over a dozen 3d printers. I use them until they wear out, and this one is a workhorse for many tasks.)
2)The printer holds it’s level very well.
3)The software that comes with it is OK.
4)They give great customer support. I used it and it was great.
5)Love the removable build plates. Best in the industry, in my opinion.
5)Large Size is great but costs less than the other printers of the same size. (But it doesn’t cost less, if you use it for production. See number 4 below.)
I don’t like to ever like to write reviews with bad cons.
I’m doing this so you can be informed.
1)The plastic spool can have the filament plastic slip off when printing larger objects, ruining your prints. The reason this happens is that much of the printer filament is pulled off the spool when the printer head is towards the front of the printer, and then the printer head moves quickly to the back and this pushes the filament back into the draw tube and off of the filament reel. I solved this issue by purchasing for about $6 this (PTFE Teflon Bowden Tube for 1.75 Filament (2.0mm ID/4.0mm OD) – White Connector Tubing for 3D Printer – 1.5 Meters). About 18 inches is enough. Now even when the distance from the place where the filament is drawn from changes, the filament can never be pushed back into the printer. (My other printers came with this as a standard feature, but is easy to buy and add…)
2)The flexible cable running to the print head catches on the guild rods, really tearing the flexible cable, if printing larger objects. This is a real issue. I put tape on my cable to hold it in a better spot, but is still an issue. (From experience, this is a major wear issue with many heavily used 3d printers. It’s easy to replace, but this is a design flaw as it will cause early failure.)
3)This included slicer did not work as well as it should so I upgraded to Simplify3d. This did work well after I learned Simplify3d. Was a learning curve.
4)The printer’s fastest print speed is 50mm a second. I tested this with Simplfy3d where I tried progressively faster and faster print speeds. This one tops out at about 50mm a second. (I also tried slowing down the printer and it didn’t correct the banding issue, but the quality went up slightly, as expected.)
Most printers can print at 100mm a second or faster, but not this one! This means I need two printers to do the job of one printer. (Some printers can print at 250mm a second and they are bigger, and they don’t cost five times as much.)
5)Final surface quality can be sup par. At first I did only prototype parts, where I would print, change the design and print again. But when I needed a final part, here the printer failed. Three out of four surfaces were perfect, but one surface would have weird banding. I tried printing much slower. No help as it still had the banding. I tried printing 50micron layer height, but still banding. (My other printers have no such issue.) It appears that the firmware inside the printer calculates the wrong placement of the print head at times! Not by much, but enough to cause visible banding, sometimes severe, where other printers do not have this issue.
6)There are many features that are included in other printers, but not this one,
a)no filament run-out sensor, (I did purchase a 3rd party one and installed it. It beeps loudly and provides time to change the reel.) and
b)if one needs to use Simplfy3d, the display doesn’t work as it should on the printer (works but does not display the model.)
c)You cannot monitor a print with a computer
d)The only way to print is to load a file onto a thumb drive or SD Card and requires that you walk to the printer instead of doing it over a network (like Afinia 800+).
My take away.
Its a great reliable printer for prototypes. It will work better than most printers.
If you are going to sand and paint for finish it will work well. (If you want print and be done with great quality, I’ve found other printers can be better. Not the homemade ones mind you, but Afinia has no such banding.)
If you want great surface quality or are in a production environment, you can do better.
In my companies, I could not recommend this printer.
Even so, I do use this one I purchased and it is super reliable for most jobs!
(I may try to work with QiDi and see if they can correct the banding issue. Takes time from my end to explain, but for now, I’m just printing on other printers.)
ADIMLab Gantry-S 3D Printer
ADIMLab Gantry-S is the best 3D Printer of cosplay First impressions of the Gantry Sprinter. Fast and easy build, easy to level, easy to use out of the box. The print area is about 9.5 inches cube. This printer has a single screw for the Z axis and I wasnt too keen on that, til I got it put together. This thing is ROCK SOLID! The folks at ADIMLab really have found an excellent way to setup these machines.
The build time was about 1hr and 15min, bed leveling took about 5 minutes and I was able to do the pink box print. I was very happy with the way that came out . The box contains all the tools required to assemble and fully setup the printer, and even has a small amount of test filament.
I currently am printing on this printer and another one by ADIMLab, all my settings are the same but I have to say that it really does seem that the Gantry S is actually printing much faster. I believe the difference in speeds is due to the 32bit processor vs the 8 bit on the older printer.
The heatbed does heat fairly fast and holds temp nice and stable. The hotend has 2 parts cooling fans as well as the heat break fan. Bridging performance is pretty darn good. I ran 0.15 layer height printing at 30mm/s and bridged it over a 38mm gap, there was no sagging and layer adhesion on the next layer was very good.
The Gantry S comes with a build surface that has ZERO problems holding the print in place. Be careful when removing it from the bed though, I actually damaged mine a slight amount due to carelessness.
There is a very active support group on Facebook with very knowledgeable folks who are quick to respond to most any questions as well as actual support issues should they arise.
This printer is the 2nd one that I have personally owned from ADIMLab. I am sure that when they offer another printer I will be at the front of the line.
So final thoughts here, the build was easy and is very solid. The bed heats well and maintains temps as it should. The hotend is well built and also holds temps well. The cable management is good and there are lots of cable ties included. If you are an experienced maker or new to the whole 3D printing world I think this would make a great starting point or addition to your collection.
I really liked the fact that this came in 2 boxes, the external box is a standard Amazon box which was not labeled as a 3d printer in any way. I always feel a lot more comfortable when a box does not indicate what the contents of the package is as a lot of my packages get delivered when I am not home and I don’t always get to bring them inside right away. The printer box has fitted foam which has a spot for each of the individual printer parts. Nothing in the package was damaged in any way and everything seemed very well protected.
Having the original AdimLab Gantry I am familiar with the company and how they present their product. There were a few things on the original larger Gantry printer that I had to fine tune and adjust to get things printing just right. The Gantry-S printer is a super solid printer and it worked amazingly right after the build was complete. All of the necessary screws were tight like the print bed rollers, the bed does not have any play at all on this printer out of the box. The aluminum extrusions used for this printer are both 20×20 and 20×40 which makes this a SUPER SOLID printer. I feel like I can pick this printer up and move it around easily without anything moving or changing on the printer. I can tell that there was a lot more time and effort put into quality control on this printer compared to their first Gantry printer. Both printers are great printers but this one went beyond my expectations for what I paid for the printer.
Out of all of the printers I have owned, this is the only printer I did not have to fine tune and adjust before printing. The only thing I had to do before my first print was level the bed which was made easy with the large 3d printed leveling adjusters. There is a sample cube print on the SD card and there are also images pre-sliced that are for the 3d printed parts on this printer. The part cooling ducts and the bed level adjusters are the only 3d printed parts on this printer which I am totally okay with because they are not structural parts. The instructions indicate how to set this printer up in Cura as a new printer and with basic knowledge of printer settings a 3d image can be easily sliced and printed quickly. The first things I printed were the files that were on the SD card. I feel like some of the spare parts I printed came out as a better quality than the ones that came with the printer.
Overall I would definitely recommend this printer for either a beginner or somebody that has other printers or 3d printing experience. I really like the fact that this is a partial kit because for somebody that is new to 3d printing it can teach them a lot of the different components of the printer. The first 3d printer I had was a kit and it taught me so much about printing to learn about how all of the parts work together to make the printer work. The price for the quality of this printer is definitely worth it and this purchase is something I definitely do not regret. I will keep using this printer and update this review after time of using the printer.
It was very easy to set up the printer and it printed great 3D print just out of box.
Highly recommend it.